Skyros is one of those Greek islands whose name you usually have to repeat when you tell someone you’re going there. Off-radar (although it’s just a 40-minute flight from Athens or less than 2hrs by ferry from Evia) and unchanging, it is an island full of tradition and authenticity and has secrets that need to be teased out to be discovered. So we’ve done the hard work for you by pinning down the best things to do on your holidays in Skyros.
Take a stroll around Hora
The quickest way to get a feeling for the island is to explore the main town. Hora is the beating heart of Skyros, filled with shops, restaurants and bars and locals going about their daily lives pretty much all year round. Even if you’re staying elsewhere, you’ll be returning to Hora numerous times during your stay. At first glance (whether you approach it from the airport or the port), it appears like a scene out of the Cyclades, with sugar-cubed houses tumbling theatrically down a hillside crowned by the remains of a Venetian fortress. But this is where comparisons with Greece’s superstar islands end.
Hora has a down-to-earth, timeless feel to it. Locals still live in tiny houses in a maze of cobbled alleyways, most of which snake up towards the Byzantine castle (Kastro). Your reward for the steep climb to the top is a visit to the Monastery of Agios Georgios founded in the 10th century. Its main church dates from the 17th century, with beautiful frescoes and an impressive iconostasis. But the real treasure is the fortress above it, which you reach through a narrow tunnel within the monastery grounds. Built in the 13th century, it was where the refuge of islanders when they were under siege. You can see the remains of the buildings they stayed in for weeks or even months. And the 360-degree view is one of the best in the Aegean.
Become one with local traditions and crafts
Next on your list of things to do in Skyros is to dig deeper into the island’s traditional crafts. You’ll have spotted them walking around Hora, not just in souvenir shops (like Skyrian Ceramics) but as intricately designed furniture and display ornaments through the windows of people’s houses. The diminutive wood-carved chairs and tables seem like they are made for oversized dollhouses, until you see the locals’ tiny living rooms and they make perfect sense. Meanwhile, hand-painted pottery (plates, jugs etc) take pride of place on walls above fireplaces.
The best experience, of course, is to learn from the craftspeople themselves. There’s a woodcarving workshop at the foot of town and Thesis Wood (a few minutes’ drive from Hora) gives you a hands-on appreciation of the carving and chiselling techniques that shape the island’s abundant Apello pine. Meanwhile, Stamatis Ftoulis’ Skyrian Ceramics workshop in Magazia gives you a full appreciation for the intricacy of the decoration techniques used on plates, jugs and other Skyrian ceramics.
Choose your beach for the day
You won’t need to be told where to find the main beach. You can see it from the monastery and the Venetian fortress … more than a kilometre of sand stretching out within the main bay below town. Magazia (as it’s known) can be whatever you want it to be: a sunbed & umbrella and beach bar scene or a nothing but towel-on-the-sand kind of beach. It’s that big. And for whenever you get hungry, there are tavernas at various points overlooking the sea.
More scenic (but needing a car to get to) are beaches like Pefkos and the picturesque little bay of Agios Fokas on the eastern side of the island, as well as Atsitsa. The closest beach to the port is Acherounes and the coolest beach is Kyra Panagia (sunbeds, music etc and shallow water that’s perfect for small kids). Meanwhile, Kalamitsa is a long expanse of sand and pebbles that is popular with windsurfers and kitesurfers. All have tavernas either on or near the beach.
And for total seclusion (you have to walk around 1km but, boy, is it worth it), is gorgeous little Agalipa beach by the airport. There are no signs, so ask for directions before setting out.
Step into the past with a history lesson
Time for some culture on your holidays in Skyros. While you’re walking around Hora, ask for directions to Brooke Square, where you’ll find a statue dedicated to Rupert Brooke, the British First World War poet, and a wonderful view of Magazia beach. Brooke died on Skyros in 1915 and was buried in a remote area in the southern part of the island (you can visit his grave, which includes a marble plaque engraved with the words of his most famous poem, The Soldier).
Just below Brooke Square are two museums, the Faltaits Folklore Museum, housed in the 19th-century residence of painter Manolis Faltaits and featuring memorabilia such as traditional costumes, maps, manuscripts and sepia photographs and the Archaeological Museum of Skyros, with artefacts including ancient pottery, jewellery and sculptures from the Mycenaean, Geometric and Classical periods up to Hellenistic, Roman and Byzantine times. Also on display are artefacts from the prehistoric settlement of Palamari in northern Skyros, which you can also visit. It is an archaeological site dating from the Bronze Age (Middle and Late Bronze Age, 2nd-1st millennium BC). Excavations have revealed a large fortified settlement, with houses, public buildings and a complex system of fortifications.
Go horseback-riding and learn about Skyrian horses
The short, sturdy Skyrian horses have existed, semi-domesticated on the island for thousands of years and are considered an important part of the cultural heritage. Some say they are the same breed of horse used in battle in ancient Greece (like those carved on the Parthenon Marbles) and others argue that they are descended from Scotland’s Shetland ponies. What we know for sure is that they once worked the island’s threshing floors (examples can be seen by the road approaching Hora from the port).
The island’s small population of Skyrian horses now either roams freely or is part of conservation efforts. The Skyrian Horse Conservation Centre at Mouries Farm (on the way to Kalamitsa beach) has a breeding program and offers horseback riding (they also have bigger horses), as does the Appaloosa Horse Riding Club near the airport. Always a hit with the kids.
Fill up on the local cuisine
There’s plenty of traditional food to get stuck into during your holidays in Skyros. You’ll find all the Greek classics (meat, seafood and vegetarian) but top of the list of local dishes are the goat and lamb recipes. Traditionally, they are made with a red (tomato) or lemon sauce and slow-cooked until fall-off-the-bone tender. The fava of Mouries Farm (ask at the riding club) makes excellent split pea puree and local cheeses include mizithra (a soft white cheese), xynotiri (sour cheese) and graviera (a kind of gruyere).
Possibly the most decadent thing you’ll eat in Skyros is tiganopsomo (fried bread) served with xynotiri cheese or loukoumades, fried dough balls drizzled with local honey (the local thyme honey is the best) and chopped walnuts. But the biggest treat by far is another Skyros speciality, Lobster Spaghetti (astakomakaronada). The spaghetti is tossed in a tomato, garlic and onion sauce and served with chunks of lobster still in its shell. Go easy on the starters. You’ll need the space.
Take a boat trip to hidden swimming spots
There’s a choice of providers offering boat tours from Linaria (the port), allowing you to spend a day at sea, exploring the rugged coastline. They all take you to remote swimming spots, such as Glyfada beach on nearby Sarakiniko island and Agalipa (the beach gem that can only otherwise be reached on foot). Another favourite boat trip is to the Diatripti Sea Caves below the southeastern cliffs, where you can swim in the mesmerising blue water within the cave. Some boat trips offer lobster or prawn spaghetti on the return journey.
Spread some Insta envy
The best way to not have to repeat yourself when you tell friends you visited Skyros is to spread some Instagram envy before turning home. A few spots will do it. Yes, the view of Magazia beach from Kastro (the castle) or Brooke Square is pretty special and your stroll around Hora will give you plenty of authentic details (doorways, ceramics, wood carvings, churches, bougainvillea etc). But it’s worth making the effort to visit a few standout Insta-stars.
Agios Nikolaos Church in Pouria is an amazing little whitewashed church literally carved into a rock at the end of Molos Bay. It has only a handful of icons inside and fits just a few people. And for perhaps the best sunset on the island (and a one-of-a-kind view at any time of day), head to Agios Panteleimonas church. It’s at the highest point on the drive from Pefkos to Agios Fokas beach, with great views of the pine forest and Valaxa, an islet opposite.
And finally, a nugget that was totally off grid until recently. On the walk through the pine tree forest to Agalipa beach, the footpath veers off to the left and descends to another bay with a shipwreck marooned on the beach. Before you go down, there’s a natural viewpoint that lets you capture the most amazing green-blue water and the shipwreck on the beach. Your work is done! Definitely a must on any best things to do in Skyros list.
Explore nature … above and below the water
One of the most striking aspects of Skyros is how the rocky, arid south (dominated by the island’s highest peak, Mt Kochylas) is so different from the rich greenery of the pine forest-covered northwest. Both offer scenery worthy of a day’s walking. There are five trails around Mt Kochylas (among the most challenging), setting out from locations like Achili, Kalamitsa and Agios Modestos.
A much more accessible and beautiful hike is from Hora to the Church of Panagia Limpiani or the trail around Palamari. Likewise, the walk from Hora to Magazia beach (down the stairs from Brooke Square and along Molos Bay to the lighthouse just beyond Agios Nikolaos Church) is one of the most enjoyable on the island.
And for diving enthusiasts, Skyros Diving Centre in Acherounes and Linaria (the port) is a must. Run by the super-professional Vassilis Trakos, the centre’s fully certified instructors offer diving experiences for all levels, from beginner dives to excursions to shipwrecks and into sea caves.
Live the Skyros carnival
Skyros does carnival season (apokries) like nowhere else in Greece. The festivities and costume-wearing that mark the Clean Monday celebrations (the first day of Lent) throughout Greece are extra colourful and lively in Skyros, where the island’s young men and women perform the pagan ritual of the geros (old man) and korela (daughter), marking the beginning of Lent as well as the end of winter and the start of spring. The men are dressed in goat’s masks and animal hides, and have goat’s bells hanging from their waists, while the women wear white and yellow and have veils draped over their faces, representing a Skyrian bride.
Starting from the castle, they parade through Hora, hurrying through alleyways and into the main square, accompanied by music, merriment and a cacophony of clanging bells. It’s the perfect excuse to visit an island like Skyros in February or March (the exact date depends on when Easter falls in the Orthodox Christian calendar).
After Best of Title
10 best things to do in Skyros
A short ferry ride from Kimi, in eastern Evia, Skyros is one of the less-visited Greek islands … which is perhaps its greatest attraction. The atmospheric Hora and choice of beaches are just the start of the things to do on your holidays in Skyros, with traditions & crafts, boat trips, Skyrian horses, hikes & scuba diving and the colourful Skyros carnival awaiting – if you know where to look.
FAQs Title
FAQs about Skyros, Greece
In Hora
- Margetis: The most authentic taverna in town, with grilled meats and a choice of vegetable dishes
- Pappous kai Ego: If you like cosy and inventive Greek food, this one’s for you
- Villaggio: An Italian restaurant with excellent pizzas, pasta and seafood at the bottom of Hora
- Faltaina’s Sweets: Some of the best ice cream you’ll ever eat (try it and tell us if we’re exaggerating) and specialists in Skyrian sweets. There’s a shop in town but the best choice of flavours is at the Workshop just below town
- Mouza Grill House: The go-to souvlaki and kebab restaurant in town
- Meilissonas Fergada: Sample all the Skyros honey products and buy a jar or two of your favourite for home
- O Mitsos Bougatsa: If you feel like a cheeky bougatsa (Greek custard pie in puff pastry) for breakfast or any other time of day
Outside town
- Istories tou Barba: Beautiful seafood and creative dishes just above Magazia beach (you can’t book and it’s popular, so get there early)
- Stelios: The most established high-end seafood restaurant on Skyros and the go-to place for lobster spaghetti
- Psariotis: The main seafood restaurant in Linaria (the port) with fresh fish. The family owns a fishing boat (enough said!)
- O Stefanos: Traditional Skyrian taverna in a great location if you’ve spent the day at (or are staying near) Magazia beach
- Ktima Mouries: A standout choice for meat and other Skyrian dishes just opposite the Skyrian horse conservation centre and if you are visiting Kalamitsa beach
- Agios Petros: A magical setting (in the middle of a pine tree forest) very close to the airport, with meat and vegetable dishes made with ingredients from their farm. Close to Agalipa beach.
- Juicy Bar: The coolest of the beach bars on Magazia beach (Ammoudies is another) with pasta, club sandwiches, cocktails etc
There are a few bars in Hora, so your best bet is to check them out and choose the one that grabs your fancy. But a few to get you started include:
- AGORA: Tucked in at the back of the main square, Agora has a well-stocked bar and lovely views over the back of town. With occasional live music in the summer
- Kalypso: A cosy bar at the top of town, with a good cocktail menu and vintage decor. A great spot in any season
- Oino Cafe Bar: A café by day and bar by night, right in the middle or town. Ideal for people watching with a coffee, beer or wine, or cocktail at any time of day