Discovering the green heart of Thassos
For me, Thassos is its greenery. I often had to remind myself that I was on a Greek island and not on some mainland destination in Greece. The green landscape is so rich and vibrant that I couldn’t stop admiring it wherever I went. The surface of its forests is full of folds, as if someone had covered the island with the most beautiful green tablecloth of pine and fir trees.
Clusters of Brutia pines cover most of the island and, as you go up in altitude, they intertwine in a magical contrast with Black pine trees. In the coolest and highest parts, especially towards the villages of Potamia and Theologos, you will find impressive fir trees, while on the coast, the landscape is dominated by olive trees.
The olive groves, blessed as they are, add a special touch to the natural beauty of Thassos. The air is filled with the scent of pine, thyme and lavender, creating a sense of wellbeing and rejuvenation. You are left wondering how you can bring at least a little of this literally divine quality, this contact with nature, into your daily practice.
A sense of freedom and fulfilment on Mount Ipsarion
Moving on to the highest peak of Thassos, at 1,204 metres, we arrived at my favourite part of the trip. The walk up Mount Ipsarion and the footpaths that wind through the forests of the area offer incomparable views and a feeling of deep connection with nature. With the landscape changing constantly as you climb, I came across slate and marble, materials that testify to the rich history of the island. They added an extra dimension to my experience and gave me the opportunity to admire not only the natural beauty but also the geological diversity of Thassos.
As the path become steeper, green slopes full of olive and pine trees took on centre stage. The richness of nature here leaves you with your jaw wide open. Huge ferns stretch out before you, while the sound of birds and running water accompany your every step, offering a feeling of peace and tranquility. As I always like to say, “Nature is our therapy”.
When I reached the top, the view was truly breathtaking. The sense of freedom and fulfilment was immeasurable. From there, the Aegean Sea stretched out before me, offering a panoramic view of the surrounding islands and the distant coastline of Kavala. I lay in an opening at the peak, enjoying the scenery and the feeling of conquest, and I shed not only the tiredness but also the “city” that I had been carrying for so many days.
Listening to the sounds of nature
While climbing Mount Ipsarion, I vowed to discover more of the natural beauty of Thassos. The island is full of small green oases that offer incredible peace. The Maries Waterfalls and Lake are two of the island's well-hidden gems.
The Maries Waterfalls may not be large, but their beauty is immense. The water drops from tall rocks, forming small pools which are ideal for cooling dips on hot summer days. The first waterfall, on the edge of the lake, is easy to reach. The second is a little further away, but on the same side of the lake. The third waterfall, which takes a bit more effort to reach, is the most impressive, with every step taking you further into the realm of a fairytale.
Lake Maries is magical, reached through a dense forest, and offers a quiet haven to relax in once you get there. I lay by the bank, listening only to the sounds of the forest and admiring the colours of the water. The most beautiful part of the experience was that I hadn't the slightest idea that such a place existed on Thassos and that it exceeded all my expectations.
Travel back in time to Kastro village
I’ve got to confess that the village of Kastro is the kind of place where you wish you could buy a house, so that you can live in its charm forever. Close to Limenaria, your first glimpse of this medieval settlement is unexpected, as it remains hidden from the street until virtually the last moment. One reason for this is the pirates that once ravaged the island. Locals would build their villages in the hills, giving them time to abandon their homes before the corsairs showed up.
For many centuries, Kastro was the centre of the island. With the 20th century came the development of mining on Thassos, leading to the gradual abandonment of Kastro as its residents sought work on the coast. By the end of the World War Two and the Civil War that followed, Kastro had become an abandoned settlement, even though it never lost its great cultural wealth.
But life returned to this settlement and, walking through the narrow streets today, you feel like you are travelling back in time. The old mansions and the church of Agios Athanasios welcome visitors who want to get a feeling for the olden times on the island. The architecture of the buildings, which bears witness to the history and culture of the place, makes you feel the authenticity and charm of the past.
If you find yourself in Kastro, you should definitely meet Mr Kostas and hang out in the coffee shop in the village square, listening to his stories and, above all, to solve the riddles he sets for visitors – until they are solved by their own laughter, as only his granddaughter can solve them.
As for me, I made myself a promise to return for the view from one side of the village. Words can’t describe it, but its energy makes you change your perspective for many things going on in your life.
History and nature combining in Aliki
In the southwest of Thassos, Aliki is a magical place that takes you back to a time when history and beauty were inextricably linked. Today, we enjoy the narrow strip of land that divides Aliki into two back-facing sandy bays that are a joy to swim in. But in ancient times, Aliki was an important trading centre and natural harbour dedicated to Dioskouri, the protector of seafarers. During the Hellenistic, Roman and Byzantine periods, the area flourished thanks to the export of the famous white Thassian marble, sought after and transported throughout the known world. Near the remains are an ancient settlement and marble quarry where you can still find the names of sailors etched into the marble, along with wishes for their safe return.
The colours of the sea are enough to make you not want to leave the beach. The more cosmopolitan of the two beaches, with its sunbeds and little tavernas serving Mediterranean treats tempting you in with their smells, has everything you need to stay till sunset. If you want more peace, you can choose the quieter beachfront by the ancient remains, feeling a deep sense of gratitude for the access that history has given you to this unique place.
A treasure trove of swimming spots
The beaches of Thassos are a treasure trove in themselves and would need many more words to describe their truly golden sands and the amazing emerald scenery given so generously. The truth is – and, you’ll think of me when you visit Thassos – that you can’t decide because each beach is so unique. You’ll feel lucky that you can sample them all. Paradise, Arsanas, Psili Ammos (Golden Sand) and Saliara are just a few that I'll mention in the hope of returning to Thassos soon to explore them all.
But I insist that you visit the Giola lagoon, which I've seen in images on social media for years, always wondering if what I was seeing was real. This magical natural "swimming pool" is one of those places that makes you feel like you've discovered a small part of a lost world that only exists in fairytales. Hidden in the rocks on the south coast of the island, it is a natural pool with clean, turquoise water and small fish, untouched and wild. It is proof of how the art of travelling and discovering new destinations makes you feel alive.
Authentic cuisine and local products
Every visit to Thassos is an opportunity to immerse yourself in a world full of aromas and flavours that connect you to the heart of Greek tradition. The cuisine of Thassos is a true treasure, rich in simple and authentic tastes. The products used are mostly local and of exquisite quality. Olive oil and honey are just two of the invaluable ingredients of the island's culinary tradition.
If I could describe Thassos in one image, it would be of the last piece of bread dipped in olive oil. You don't need anything else to taste the island. The branches of the olive trees narrate age-old stories and constitute the heart of Thassian cuisine, adding depth and character to salads, home-cooked meals and grilled dishes.
And so the gold of extra virgin olive oil gives way to the gold of honey. Honeybees love the island… the blossom from strawberry trees, the myrtle, the lygaria (a native tree) and especially the pine trees, gifting us honey with an unbelievable flavour and aroma. One spoonful of yogurt with honey will convince you.
Until we meet again
My last morning finds me on the boat on the way back, feeling bereft as I would have loved to stay longer and enjoy the island to the full. But I decided to say “Eis to epanidein” – Greek for “Until we meet again” – rather than goodbye. Thassos lives and breathes through its archaeological sites, the tradition of its villages, the welcome of its residents, and the magic of its nature and its beaches.
